The rebuild of the Honey Badger is well underway and almost time to mount the shell on the chassis. The wiring is one of the bigger changes on the robot. The original prototype uses one battery to drive both motors which saves on weight but it means a bigger drain on the single battery and the robot is more prone to failing because of the single connection to the battery. In the rebuild, there are two batteries where one battery powers one wheel. That does mean more weight and more wiring to look after but it does mean the drain isn't present and the wiring per wheel is actually simpler. The use of the plugs and more soldering means the wiring is reliable as well.
The next problem I had was the bolts to hold the motor in place. The ones I had bought were 25mm long and when fully bedded into the gearbox, it fouls on the gears and locks it up. Not good. I had tried using nuts on the bolts to space it out a little but it was still pretty bad. However, I have a whole bunch of motherboard screws from my last computer rebuild and they use the same width threads so I got a couple of those and hallelujah, it fits perfectly and they have flared heads to spread the load out.
With the drive now done, my attention turned to the weapon. The weapon will remain the same but I need to get a tap and die on the shaft to get a pair of nyloc nuts on it to hold the blade on it. The weapon motor was powered by on the of the 1.2aH batteries previously but now is powered by a 2.1ah battery which is mounted within the chassis by the motors.
I still need to address how to get the shell on the robot. The horizontal bars slightly fouls the shell when attempted to be put on and have already tried filing it down to fit. So the quickest option is to simply cut a inch or so off the rounded edges off the bars so that that they still protect the wheels but doesn't meet the edge of the shell. The bars will still work as defence against side impacts, just that the shell will bend a little ;). More seriously, I need to address the removable link and power light issue.
The power light (a requirement for the FRA) can be easily addressed as I have a LED strip light from a car project I did a few years ago. That should be fairly simple as that already is a 12v voltage but I'll need to retain the transformer to make sure it doesn't burn out.
Seeya all on the net!
Written by Ocracoke - 69